Paths and walkways of any size or shape are formed either in one full length with expansion joints or in sections. This controls cracking due to shrinkage of the drying concrete.
You Will Need:
timber planks for boxing
straw broom or steel float
Using string, plan the shape of the path or walkway then dig the area 150mm deep (if soil is not stable you may need to dig deeper). Allow room for timber formwork and create a slight slope to one side for water run off.
Note: Slope away from the house.
Put down a 50mm layer of bedding sand to form a firm base.
Box up the timber formwork as high as the desired concrete slab. Soak the area well before concreting to stop moisture loss from fresh concrete.
Mix a batch of Concrete. Shovel the concrete into the formwork, slightly overfill, spreading and tamping it with a shovel. Screed the concrete with a heavy piece of timber or steel straight edge.
Make expansion joints when the concrete is green (firm to the touch). Cut across the concrete with a jointing tool, to a depth of about 1/3 the thickness of concrete at intervals of
about 11/2 x the pavement width. Run the grooving tool along the cut to give it a neat finish. An alternative is to lay the
path or walkway in sections. Put thin cross-pieces of timber in the formwork and lay concrete in every second section. On greening, finish ends with edging tool. Remove timber the next day and concrete the remaining sections.
Allow the slab to set 30-45 minutes or until bleed water has disappeared then finish the top with a wooden hand float.
For a coarse, non-slip surface, brush the near-dry surface with a stiff straw broom with moist bristles. For a smooth
finish, use a steel float. Keep moist for several days. If possible, cover with wet hessian for at least 3 days.